Waves forecasting is a quite recent issue in mathematical modelling and forecasting.
Integrating meterological models (global and locals) to forecast wind and pressure maps, wave models can predict the waves heights, waves directions, and wave periods.
An interesting contribution is given by the Environmental Authority of the Italian region Emilia Romagna (ARPA emr).
What they did is using the outupts of meteorological model LIMA (i.e. the 10 m above water surface wind speed) as input for SWAN wave model..
In particular, Adriatic Sea is discretized in a bathymetry grid of 1/60°, and the computational grid is 1/12° spaced.
Published results are wave heights map for next 48 hours.
Sea state modelling reliability can be found here.
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